Trip Overview
This adventure took us to one of America’s most remote national parks – 4 days of true wilderness camping, zero cell service, endless wildlife encounters, and a reminder of what it means to be completely disconnected from the modern world. No camper this time – just backpacks, determination, and Sandra’s first real backpacking experience.
“In every walk with nature, one receives far more than they seek.” – John Muir
Pro Tips
- Book Ranger III ferry tickets and park passes months in advance through the National Park Service – they fill up quickly, especially for September when the weather is more predictable
- Pack everything you’ll need – there are no stores on the island. This includes water purification equipment, food, a dowel if you’re back-country camping. The principle is simple: what comes in, must come out
- Bring a batter bank, but also set your phone to Low Battery and Airplane modes from the get go, to get the most out of the charge.
- Find your hikes and download in All trails ahead of the trip.
- Never leave shoes outside your tent – foxes love to steal them (presumably for late-night chewing sessions)
- Book your return water taxi the day before departure in case of early ferry departures due to weather
- Get to campgrounds early to snag the coveted shelters with wooden floors and roofs
- Bring backpack rain covers – we learned this the hard way and stayed damp the entire trip
What happened:
September 2, 2023 – Cincinnati to Marquette
Sandra and I left Cincinnati and drove north to Marquette, Michigan, checking into Marquette Tourist Park. The park sits next to a small lake that offered perfect kayaking opportunities right at our doorstep. We launched our Oru kayaks and were rewarded with sightings of Great Blue Herons, kingfishers, and several geese. The herons’ patient hunting style provided excellent photography opportunities as the evening light painted the water golden. Great way to stretch our paddling muscles before the main event.
September 3, 2023 – Pictured Rocks Detour
Drove east for one of our favorite hikes: the 10.4-mile Mosquito Falls and Chapel Falls via Chapel Loop at Pictured Rocks. This trail never disappoints – the variety of environments from dense forest to dramatic cliff-top views over Lake Superior is spectacular. The multicolored sandstone cliffs, emerald water and waterfalls make this a photographer’s paradise. Had lunch in Munising, then returned to Marquette for dinner and early rest.
September 4, 2023 – Houghton via Hidden Gems
Drove west toward Houghton but took a detour that proved absolutely worth the gravel road adventure – Emily Lake. We were the only people on this pristine lake (except for one kid fishing from the pier), and the water clarity was incredible. The late summer lily pad colors created a painter’s palette across the water surface – spectacular photography conditions. We also stopped at nearby Sandy Lake but decided one perfect lake moment was enough for the day.
Arrived in Houghton around noon with time to kill, so we explored the west coast of the Keweenaw Peninsula. Excellent decision! Eagle Harbor lighthouse and museum were fascinating, and dinner at Fitzgerald’s in Eagle River was outstanding – highly recommend it. The scenic drive along the coast was the perfect way to build anticipation for tomorrow’s island adventure.
September 5, 2023 – Ferry Day to Isle Royale
Arrived at the NPS dock around 8 am and parked our car (free parking – bonus!). We’d purchased park passes and Ranger III tickets months in advance, which is essential as they sell out quickly. Still had time for a coffee run before boarding.
The six-hour journey on the Ranger III really drives home the magnitude of Lake Superior. Mind-blowing fact: if you spread Lake Superior’s water across the continental United States, it would be 5 feet deep! Pro tip: grab one of the tables instead of regular seats – much more comfortable for eating and organizing gear during the long crossing.
The ranger’s onboard presentation was invaluable – pay attention to it! Key advice included never leaving shoes outside your tent (foxes love stealing them) and general wilderness protocols. Before arriving, the ranger asked us to inform any campers we met that the ferry would depart two hours early the next day due to an incoming storm. Made us wonder what happens to those who don’t get the message.
Arriving at Isle Royale fills you with pure excitement – the remote wilderness feeling hits immediately. The ferry first stops at an NPS station to unload provisions and load garbage (everything that comes in must go out). Once docked, we headed straight to Rock Harbor Visitor Center to book our return water taxi. Sandra wisely insisted on booking it for the day before our planned departure – smart move given the early departure announcement.
Set up camp at Rock Harbor Campground, which was packed. During that short walk, Sandra realized she’d overpacked for her first backpacking trip and left some items in a visitor center locker – excellent decision that made the rest of the trip much more enjoyable. We hiked the short Scoville Point trail via Stoll Trail (3 miles) and spotted our first silver fox that evening, reminding us to guard our boots carefully.
September 6, 2023 – Rock Harbor to 3 Mile Campground
Broke camp early and headed to 3 Mile Campground. Important lesson learned: there are two types of campsites – regular tent sites and shelters (wooden floor and roof). Shelters are highly coveted and go fast, so arrive early to claim one.
Light rain accompanied us most of the way, and we discovered our mistake of not bringing backpack rain covers. We stayed damp for the rest of the trip – learn from our error!
Explored the area with a hike northwest toward Tobin Harbor. The environmental diversity was amazing – watching the ecosystem transition from lakefront to inland forest. Spotted snowshoe hares, foxes, and plenty of moose scat, though the moose themselves remained elusive.
The evening brought a dramatic thunderstorm with lightning striking a tree uncomfortably close to our campsite. Being separated from the elements by just two thin layers of fabric makes you feel incredibly vulnerable – humbling reminder of nature’s power.
September 7, 2023 – 3 Mile to Daisy Farm
Left early and hiked along the lake’s edge on slippery rocks – only about 3 miles but more laborious than expected. Arrived at Daisy Farm around 9 am and successfully secured a shelter this time. What a difference that wooden floor and roof made!
Fascinating discovery: part of the campground was flooded and made unavailable by a beaver family who had dammed a nearby stream. Love that in national parks, wildlife rules! The perfect example of ecosystem management in action.
Took the Daisy Farm Triangle hike (5.5 miles) inland to higher elevations. Wildlife bonanza: beavers, sandhill cranes, northern flickers, and both red and silver foxes. The observation tower offered incredible views of both the north and south sides of the island. Coolest sight: an inner lake with its own island – so it’s an island in a lake in an island in a lake! Nature’s Russian nesting dolls.
September 8, 2023 – Daisy Farm to Rock Harbor
Relaxed morning photographing beavers, Great Blue Herons, and other wildlife around the campground. Our water taxi picked us up on schedule and delivered us back to Rock Harbor where we pitched our tent for the final night.
Took one last hike toward Eagle Harbor, heading southwest. The evening provided our first completely clear sky of the trip – no clouds or rain. The star display was absolutely incredible, reminding us how much light pollution masks back home. By this point, I was already plotting our return trip for a longer stay.
September 9, 2023 – Departure and Journey Home
Boarded the Ranger III for the six-hour return journey to Houghton. From there, we drove west through Marquette where we stayed overnight at a hotel – the contrast of hot showers and soft beds after four days of wilderness camping felt almost surreal.
The trip reminded us why Isle Royale is special: true wilderness, complete disconnection from the digital world (no cell service except occasionally at high elevations with Canadian towers), and wildlife that operates on its own terms. Four days felt like both a lifetime and a brief glimpse into what wilderness really means.
📸 More pictures of Isle Royale in Photo Gallery for more pics
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